Tulum _ México
Tulum, além de uma das praias mais bonitas da Rivieira Maia, tem o único complexo arqueológico da civilização Maia à beira mar. A cidade também é bastante simpática.
Fizemos uma pequena pausa no supermercado Chedraui para comprar água. Fiz questão de escrever o nome do supermercado porque ele é muito grande, similar ao Walmart, pode ser encontrado em todas as cidades da Península de Yucatán, tem melhor qualidade e melhores preços que o Walmart.
Havia anoitecido quando seguimos para Santa fé, praia conexa ao complexo arqueológico de Tulum. A policia nos informara que podíamos acampar aí. Mas... Bem... Como diz o ditado: à noite, todos os gatos são pardos!, sentimos medo. A noite escura alumiada unicamente pela lua crescente... A entrada de Santa Fé é uma estreita estrada de areia e pedra em aclive acentuado. Tudo na mais completa na mais completa solidão, nos assustou um pouco.
Apesar do cenário pouco convidativo, nos restavam poucas opções e decidimos nos aproximar um bocadinho mais. Escondida trás do monte e da noite, estava a praia de Santa Fé. Ainda bem que demos fé e viemos para conhecê-la.
No México é comum o acesso às praias serem particulares. Em Santa Fé não é diferente. O acesso pago é um camping-bar, com espaço para motor home com chuveiro, água para abastecer o carro eletricidade. mas pasme! Estava mais caro que dormir ao lado de Chichen Itsá num camping com piscina e tudo.
Embora envolvidos completamente pela sombra da noite, decidimos não ficar. A gente já estava entrando na Alice para sair quando um casal de ingleses sul-africanos nos deram uma dica fabulosa: Ao lado do camping particular estava o acesso público à praia e lá poderíamos permanecer. O melhor dessa história é que a policia de turismo fazia ronda constante no local. Nossa noite estava salva.
Nos aninhamos ali feito cão quando se esconde da chuva. Aos poucos o lugar foi ganhando uma beleza indescritível: a lua se ergueu e iluminou a escuridão desenhando, na areia branca, as sombras das palmeiras. Adormecemos acalentados pela barulho do mar, envolvidos pela silêncio quase completo de ruídos urbanos. Algumas horas mais tarde, outra Kombi-casa mexicana nos fez companhia.
Quando o quintal é bom a gente prepara a casa. Santa Fé foi, sem demora, incluída em nosso plano de permanência. Ficar ai, curtindo uma preguiça até que que a nova semana começasse.
Projeto feito e aprovado, passamos a viver nossas férias da estrada. Aproveitamos tanto que até nos esquecemos das ruínas de Tulum, vistas da beira-mar.
Segundo dia no acampamento
Nossos dias foi agradável e a noite também seria, salvo por um episódio: Quando estávamos no melhor do descanso fomos acordados pela policia de turismo que sugeriu que ali não era um bom lugar para ficar, deveríamos partir no dia seguinte.
Nesta noite não houve rondas policiais, só duas pessoas do camping jogavam luzes freqüentemente, certamente querendo nos deixar inseguros. Nossos planos de descanso e trabalho foram parcialmente quebrados, mas não ficamos tristes não, partir faz parte de nossa essência, está escrito nos nossos genes. Aproveitaremos mais um dia em Tulum antes de seguir viagem para Chetumal.
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